Days 1-3

We spent our first two nights in Antigua. It is like the Santa Barbara of Central America. Everyone and everything is beautiful. There are an abundance of cafes situated in lush gardens serving delicious coffee and pasteries. It is a city of relaxation and recreation. I enjoyed being there but I was a little restless. It was like beginning the trip backwards, going to a place to rest without doing anything exshausting.

Today (Saturday) was a big day of travel. We left Antigua at seven this morning for Panahachel, a city on the shore of the majestic Lake Atitlan. Bus rides are always interesting in Central America. I think taking a bus ride is probably the most dangerous thing one can do in Guatemala. I was somewhat suprized by the adventure of this bus ride. It was supposed to be a tourist class bus. It was a big, greyhouse style with cloth seats and reasonable leg room. It cost more than the normal bas ($4 instead of $.50) because it was supposed to go directly to Panahachel without stopping. It didn't go without stopping. it stopped a lot to pick up people and drop them off at various locations. That wasn't a big deal except that it extended the trip by a good hour. The style of driving was the most astounding part. The bus driver actually passed a bicycle on the shoulder. I know! I have no way to explain it. The guy drove like a bat out of hell, like the back wheels were on fire and he had to drive fast enough to seperate the front from the back. Yet, with all his hurry he kept picking up everyone on the road. Hmmm.
From Panahachel we took a second bus to Quezaltenango (also known as Xela, Sha-la). We will be here for the next six days or so. We being Spanish school on Monday. This city is very mellow and un-touristy compared to most of the other places that I've been. A little off the beaten track, as they say in backpacking lingo.
The second bus was a chicken bus, the typical mode of transportation in Guatemala so named for the feasibility of encountering livestock in the seat next to you. I usually try to avoid these buses. They are old Blue Bird school buses retired from the US. The one today still had the silver plaque near the rearview mirror stating, "Your children's safety is our business." The seats which are tight for three children are usually filled with three to four adults and whatever animals, children or luggage that didn't fit on top of the bus. However, this bus was not full and not stinky at all. It was full of fresh moutain air and families travelling together. Across the aisle from me was a young couple and their child. I mean young. I doubt the husband had had his first shave yet. The wife looked forteen, maybe. They had a one-year old. They were so sweet and young and tender. She fell asleep on his shoulder and the baby sprawled across both their laps. He kept kissing her hair. It was sweet in a way that reflected the gentle joy of young love and the hope of happiness together. I tried not to stare at them too much, but it was like trying to stop picking at a tasty brownie in front of me.